The sun is soft, almost spring-like, with daytime temperatures reaching up to 20°C. But the mornings are cold, and that’s when the valleys of Val d’Orcia begin to breathe fog. It creeps from every hollow, drapes itself across the land, and turns the scenery into something that looks painted by an old master’s hand.
Every evening I check the forecast, looking for the biggest difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures — that’s almost always where the fog will be, and with it, the magic of sunrise.
November is a special month. It’s the season of young wine, game, and truffles. Restaurants are filled with aromas and flavors you want to savor slowly. I don’t eat meat, so my personal autumn joy is pici with truffles — always al dente, generously enriched with butter that beautifully brings out the depth of the truffle flavor.
When it comes to restaurants, none is closer to my heart than Fonte Alla Vena in San Quirico d’Orcia. Luciano, the owner, raises the bar each year and never stops surprising. If you ever find yourself there, say hello from me — he’ll appreciate it.
It’s also the season of fresh olive oil. Italians visit frantoio across Tuscany, tasting the new harvest. I’ve stayed loyal to just one — Frantoio Tistarelli in Sarteano. For the past 15 years, their oil has been the only one on my table: always exceptional, with that perfectly balanced Tuscan bitterness I love.
And of course — Brunello di Montalcino. This iconic wine was officially recognized only in the 20th century, but its roots go deep into the ancient winemaking traditions of Montalcino. True Brunello is made solely from Sangiovese grapes and aged for no less than five years. I prefer taking my guests to small, family-run wineries. My favorite is Azienda Agricola Santa Giulia, where, alongside the classics, they also make an incredible Merlot — rich, deep, and profoundly personal.
Where to stay? My recommendation is Pienza — a tiny Renaissance town, envisioned in the 15th century by Pope Pius II as the “ideal city.” Today, it’s known not only for its architecture and views over Val d’Orcia but also for the best pecorino cheese in the world. Yes, my favorite cheese is made right here.
And if you’re dreaming of a journey where you don’t have to plan a thing — where you can live in the most picturesque villa Poggio Covili, breathe in Tuscany, eat truffles, sip young wine, and take home not just flavor, but landscapes too — then join my November tour.
