On the first evening, we head to Reynisfjara. We arrive an hour before sunset when the side light begins to work in our favor—at this time, the black beach looks alive and detailed, with every single wave clearly visible. After the sun dips below the horizon, the sky over Reynisdrangar holds its color for about twenty more minutes—turning purple, then indigo, and finally dark blue. In this twilight, the silhouettes of the basalt sea stacks look like a backdrop for a Nordic epic. We shoot on tri-pods with long exposures before returning to the campsite.
On the ninth day of our Iceland tour, we wake up before dawn and drive to the Dyrhólaey peninsula. We hike up to the lighthouse at the top of the 120-meter cliff while it is still dark, set up our tripods, and wait… As the first light begins to rise over the horizon, everything gradually appears in the frame: the Dyrhólaey arch over the Atlantic waves; the black beach of Reynisfjara stretching to the east; the basalt sea stacks in the pinkish sea; and the Eyjafjallajökull glacier to the north wrapped in morning mist. We take our time shooting here because the light changes every few minutes, creating entirely new scenes. If we are lucky, the natural beauty will be topped off by puffins circling right above our heads, completely indifferent to us and the sunrise.
After Dyrhólaey, we drive to Kvernufoss—a waterfall that few people know about, though it is just as spectacular as Skógafoss. The walk takes about twenty minutes through the canyon of the Skógá River. The further you go, the narrower the canyon walls become, until we finally reach a semi-circular amphitheater of dark basalt where the waterfall drops into a hidden basin. There is a hidden path behind it, much like at Seljalandsfoss, but with no crowds around. There is only water, stone, moss, and acoustics that allow you to hear the waterfall along with your own breathing.
From Kvernufoss, we head down to Skógafoss. The morning light here is soft and hits from the side, creating a stable, double rainbow at the base of the falls. A polarizing filter makes its colors look almost unbelievably rich. Standing near the base, you will feel the air pressure from the cascading water. The mist covers the filter instantly, so we wipe the lens quickly and shoot in between the gusts of wind.
If the river water level allows, we will move on to Þórsmörk after the waterfalls. The road there is an adventure in itself, featuring several deep river crossings, canyons, and black scree slopes. As a reward, a fairytale valley will open up before us: a green oasis surrounded by glaciers and black mountains, with a birch forest along the riverbanks. You will feel completely disconnected from civilization—here we are alone, right next to the glacier, making it the best spot for afternoon shots before heading back.
We begin the evening at Gljúfrabúi. We walk up to a cleft in the rock, step ankle-deep into the cold stream, and squeeze inside. We find ourselves in a hidden amphitheater where the waterfall drops from the ceiling into a small grotto. The evening light enters from above as a thin golden beam, the moss on the walls glows emerald, and the acoustics of the enclosed space echo the roar of the water. Inside this spot, we shoot with a wide-angle lens looking up, capturing both the waterfall and the crack of sky above it. This is one of the most secret shots on the entire coast.
Next, we move to Seljalandsfoss. During the golden hour, the sun hits at a sharp angle and turns the mist into a glowing haze. First, we work from the outside—using a wide-angle lens to capture the whole waterfall, the valley, and the glacier against the golden background. Then, we follow the trail behind the waterfall. The water drops right in front of us like a solid wall, revealing the valley in the sunset light. The waterfall becomes a living frame for the golden landscape. This shot from the inside—standing in the mist and looking through the falling water at the burning sky—is something you cannot get anywhere else on earth. On this bright note, we end another part of our Iceland photo expedition.